Friday, 30 August 2013

My Singapore Story


The Singapore Skyline

This year National Day's slogan is "Many stories. One Singapore". As a true blue Singaporean, I felt complied to contribute my own Singapore story for this year cause. Born in the 70's, I was one of those who was "evacuated" from our Kampong (local slang for village) and moved into the current concrete high rise buildings. Since then Singapore have never look back.

Haw Par Villa

I have witnessed Singapore's tremendous transformation over the past 40 years. In my early days, there were not much places of interest which our children have the privilege to enjoy today. The only places our parents could bring us were The Singapore Zoo (I have a blog on this), Haw Par Villa and the occasion fun fair grounds. This is the reason why I have such strong affiliation with The Singapore Zoo and Haw Par Villa. Perhaps those from my generation share similar thoughts too. 

The Singapore River
Marina Bay Sand

I remembered not enjoying the bus trip (there was no MRT then) to China town. The reason was that we needed to get past Singapore River. Whenever we got near the river (where the current Clark Quay resided), there was always a strong pungent smell in the air. It was so repulsive that at times I felt like vomiting. The hot and stuffy environment in the then non-air conditioned bus did not help the situation. Of course, the smell has long gone after the authority put in strong effort to clean up the river. The Singapore River has now become one of Singapore famous landmarks. Tourists visiting Singapore today consider touring the length of the Singapore River in the trademark bumper boat as a must do in their itineraries. The boat tours bring them to many Singapore famous icons like The Merlion, The Marina Bay Sand, The Esplanade, The Fullerton Hotel and The Singapore Flyer etc.

Resort World Sentosa
Universal Studio Singapore

Another destination comes to my mind is Sentosa. Sentosa of today has totally shed it's "abandoned island" image to become a Resort island. I recalled not many people want to visit the island as it was deemed a exiled prison for political criminals during my young days. All these have changed. Now, we have USS (Universal Studio Singapore), S.E.A Aquarium (World largest aquarium), Adventure Cove (Water theme Park) and the lists go on at Sentosa. Visitors coming to Singapore now will surely stay a day or two at Resort World Sentosa. Singaporeans, myself included would also consider Sentosa as a great retreat instead of visiting other countries during holidays.

S.E.A Aquarium
 We shall always remember that Singapore have achieved today first world status due to the hard work of everybody. Our children get to enjoy the fruits that were planted by our parents. We can be proud but shall never let complacency set in just because what we are today.

Happy belated birthday, Singapore!

Related Posts: The Singapore Zoo

The Merlion


Monday, 8 July 2013

After Thought: Visit to Siem Reap, Cambodia


"Cool" monk at Angkor Wat

This article was actually written in reply to my traveling companions-Bayee and Tet after they wrote to me and thanked me for planning and arranging such a meaningful trip for them. My cousin Bayee, an IT guru requested the wall reliefs photos from me. He was making an application that could create 3D effect of the wall relief photos. The money make would be contributed to the poor at Cambodia and I thought that was a really cool idea. This trip has triggered a lot of thoughts and I would like to share them in a replied mail format with all of you here.  

Hi Bayee & Tet,
no problem. I have looked forward to this trip for the longest time. I did not think I have the inspiration and motivation to overcome the "mountain temples" without your companionship.  It's not easy to find someone with the same interest to travel to Cambodia. Rest assured it is always my intention to bring my daughter (when she is bigger) to these kind of places to see how lucky we are. We cannot take for granted what we have today.
 
The ride through the hidden path where we saw those people living in "kampong" (slang for village in my dialect) has brought back many memories. I used to live in this kind of condition also. Life has been hard but I think I was most carefree on those days. We were happy and easily satisfied despite not enjoying what we have today. Cambodians have been thru hell and I think most of them are much happier than those days. But I felt the influence of the richer tourists (people like us) have in a way or another exposed them to the outside world which caused their greed level to go up and their satisfaction level with their current life to go down. Sadly, the monk with the sun glass and mobile phone at Angkor Wat has reinforced my belief that something is really going wrong with the external influence there. 


Much as I like to put up a brave front, the urge to give money to all the small children was actually very high. It's always more difficult to turn away and resist giving them some money than to give them some. Much as I like to help them, you and I know it's not possible to help each and everyone of them. In my younger days, I thought I could play god by giving them big fat tips or money so that I could make them happier. But as I grew older, I was also thinking about that whether I have corrupted them and make their greed level higher. My inclination to Buddhism has sometime make me wonder is Buddha putting a test on these people based on their past Karma. The Khmer Rouge period has killed many people. Is this a punishment to the Cambodians based on their past life and misdeeds? But the Cambodians have been strong before. The era of the grand Angkor Wat is a good reminder of their glorious past. What has caused all these to collapse?


Some may think I am being petty of bargaining with the locals on things that I could easily afford. I was wanting to blend into their culture where bargaining was a happy practice. You could see our happy faces after we struck a deal. I think that is the most important thing. In this way, I think their satisfaction level has gone up. I personally feel that being poor does not give you excuses that you do not need work hard and earn your keep. When you work hard and earn your due keep, you shall be a happier man.       


All of us have their own perspective of thoughts after this visit. I think it is a matter of acceptance of who we are. We may have the common belief that Cambodians are poor people and that makes them unhappy and without pride. Will money actually makes them happier, prouder or greedier? We are no god and really cannot judge on this.


Of cos, all these are my own opinions. No problem on the requested photos. Give me sometime to download and select the good ones. Let's hope we can do our bit to improve life for the Cambodians :-).

Thanks & Best Regards,
Paulo Tan


Simple old lady at a lesser temple
Related Posts: Prelude-Visit to Cambodia, Siem Reap, Temple Run at Siem Reap Cambodia

For Your Pinning

Monday, 24 June 2013

Temple Run at Siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor Wat
As the plane landed on the Siem Reap Internationl Airport, we could feel Angkor Wat's presence. I saw the Cambodian's flag. The world famous temple was embedded proudly within.  The passengers in the plane were talking on Angkor Wat during the 2 hours flight from Singapore. We could understand why. There was only 1 theme within the airport. Everything was centered around Angkor Wat. As we explored the city later, it was unanimous. The hotels, souvenirs, shirts, beers, foods, advertisements were all linked in a way or another to the ancient temple.  My cousin-Bayee, who was one of my traveling companions, asked an interesting question-what if Angkor Wat vanishes one day? Will Cambodia be able to survive without it's icon? Of course, no one has the perfect answer and it is really something to ponder upon.
Apsaras

Terrace of The Leper King

Our days in Cambodia would take us to mountain temples and ancient ruins. The reason why they are called mountain temples was simple. They were constructed to resemble mountains! In fact, the highest peak is the sacred Mount Meru which is considered to be the center of all the physical, metaphysical and spiritual universes by Buddhists and Hindus. It was no easy feat to "run" from temples to temples, trekking through the ruins and conquering the temples by clambering the steep stairs and  reaching the highest points. The killer was always the unforgiving hot and humid weather. During our visit, it ranged from 32 to 37 degree Celsius! At the the end of each day, we would try to recover by having a sumptuous meal and a good Khmer massage. The three of us have developed  "temple out" syndrome and  lost count of the temples that we have visited when we left Siem Reap. But none of us has regretted the decision to visit  the recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Pre Rup
East Mebon

We decided to engage tour guide on our trip at Angkor as we want to understand the histories of the ruins. It was a great decision as they brought us around in air-conditioned van and made the temples came alive with their narratives. You can see my review of them at TripAdvisor.  

Benteay Srei
Preah Khan

Many people still have the wrong perception that Cambodia has only Angkor Wat. In fact, the well-preserved Angkor Wat was just one of the many temples built in the Angkor period.There were the "first generation temples" called the Roulous group which consists of Lolei, Preah Ko and Bakong. Though not as well-decorated as the latter temples, they were the oldest around. We also visited Bayon-The Temple of Many Buddhas faces, Ta Promh-The Jungle Temple, Benteay Srei-The Lady Temple, Pre Rup, The Royal Palace, Baphuon, Preah Khan, East Mebon, Terrace of the Leper King, Terrace of The Elephants and many others.
Preah Ko
Horses grazing at The Terrace of The Elephants

 It was virtually impossible to talk about all the temples that I visited at Siem Reap. I could only pick my top three but this would surely not do justice to the rest of the magnificent architectures.
Statue at the side entrance of Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat- Who dare says he/she visited Cambodia without visiting Angkor Wat? It is the largest religious monument in the world and even bigger in reputation than the country itself. As we walked through the large temple complex, we could imagine it's glory during it's heyday. Thousands of soldiers with their horses and elephants steads would march through the ground, led by their King as they headed to the main temple ground to pray to their deity Vishnu. Apsaras, the court female dancers which adjourned the walls of the temple, would dance to Khmer music performed by the King's specially selected musicians.The endless bas reliefs at the temple walls told the stories of their deities and God-kings. Great battles were fought which the righteous sides would eventually prevail. The one I found most interesting is the one on the Churning of the Milky Ocean. The gods (Devas) and demons (Asuras) stood in an orderly row at opposite end and pulled the Serpent King (Naga) at either end to churn the ocean of  it's Amrita or the nectar of immortal life. You could see the story in statues form at the gate of Angkor Thom though most of the original statues' heads were sadly decapitated and stolen.

Outer Complex of Angkor Wat


Bas Relief at Angkor Wat
Gallery of Bas Reliefs
Makeshift Stairs to inner keep of Angkor Wat
The greatest accomplishment would be entering the inner keep of the temple and conquering "Mount Meru". We would need to climb a set of steep steps to reach the top end of the temple. This was the place where I finally came face to face to the five prominent "Gopuras" which formed the famous outlook of the Angkor Wat that one would normally see in TV, magazines or post cards.In the past, only the King himself and high-ranking priests could allow to step into this sacred ground. The feeling of finally realizing one of the items in my wish lists was indescribable.

Monks at Angkor Wat

The Bayon-The moment I set my eyes on the temple, I immediately fell in love of this marvelous architecture. From a distance, you could see the many imposing Buddhas faces smiling and seeming to welcome us to it's holy ground.As we entered into the temple complex,  I was captivated by more Buddhas' faces looking at us from different angles. According to our tour guide-Sothorn, this was the first and last mountain temple dedicated to Buddhism in Angkor. The rest of the mountain temples were actually built in the name of Hinduism. As an avid photographer, my camera never stop clicking in the temple compound. I realized I took more photos in Bayon than any other temples in Siem Reap. No wonder it is easily the most popular tourists' site after Angkor Wat. It's really hard to imagine how the people then could construct a temple with such complexity with bare hands and basic tools.
The Bayon 1
The Bayon 2
The Bayon 3
The Bayon 4

Ta Prohm-This temple was made famous by Angeline Jodie for the show-The Tomb Raiders. I realized even without her, Ta Prohm should already been popular due to it's unique presence. Ta Prohm was called "The Jungle Temple" for good reason. Ancient trees with their massive roots have integrated as part of the temple structures. Those who have good imagination would immerse themselves as actors or actresses in Indiana Jones or Lord of the Rings adventures, where the ancient trees would suddenly come alive and use their roots to entwine and engulf those that dare ventured this deep to threaten the temple's treasure. During our visit, the place was under extensive renovation. Sadly, many of the trees have been removed (fully or partially) as their presence was slowly destroying the temple structure.
Ta Prohm 1
Ta Prohm 2
Ta Prohm 3
Ta Prohm 4
Despite the flourish of tourism in Siem Reap, we could still see many poor people around. Small children, some younger than my 6 years old daughter, were trying to sell me souvenirs at almost all temples I visited. It was a sad sight to witness as they should be studying in school instead of plying their trades at the temples. We knew it was impossible to buy from everyone of them. Let's hope the situation will get brighter for them as things become better.

Children at the Ruins

I posed an interesting question to my traveling buddies-Bayee and Tet at the end of our journey. Would they come back to Siem Reap and explore the temples again? Their answers were affirmative "NO". One time experience was good enough was their main reason. What about myself? I would not say no if I have the opportunity to come back again. That will be the time that I really want to blend into the culture and everyday lives of the Cambodians. Of course, I will not forget about the temples. I hope I still have the strength and desire to conquer the mountain temples by then :-).

Related Posts: Prelude-Visit to Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, After Thought-Visit to Siem Reap, Cambodia  





Group photo at Angkor Wat-Myself, Bayee and Tet

For Your Pinning